	Burmese Days Inle Lake

Inle Lake

From pristine waters, to mist-shrouded mountains, to lush floating gardens, Inle Lake is a stunning narration of Myanmar's diverse natural beauty. Combine the breathtaking vistas with charming villages, timeless traditions and ever-present Buddhist spirituality, and Inle gives the impression of a magical world afloat. Time passes ever so gently in this enchanting place, which is contentedly sheltered from the rush of contemporary life. To say that Inle is a treasure trove of serenity might sound trite, but to visit here is to glimpse a profound truth behind the cliché.

Intha people, who take their name from the word meaning sons of the lake, inhabit the area. Their villages of bamboo and wooden dwellings are situated in the midst of the lake, perched on stilts, in total harmony with the environment. This is the only place in the world where flower and vegetable gardens float, created by joining beds of water hyacinth and flotsam. When secured to the bottom of the shallow lake with bamboo poles, they form rich, fertile plots for cultivating a wide variety of market and subsistence crops, including beans, cabbage, tomatoes, cauliflower, melons and papayas. The abundance of these crops is best seen in the vast open-air markets that operate on a five-day rotation.

The lake lays claim to several thriving cottages industries, none so resplendent as silk and cotton weaving. Visiting the workshops, it is easy to see why Inle's weavers are celebrated for the beauty and delicacy of their textiles. Like every region of Myanmar, Inle has its own unique, readily recognizable designs. The textiles, which are used primarily for the traditional longyi, or sarong, differentiate the community and serve as a source of immense local pride. Similarly, small enclaves of cheroot factories, silversmiths and gold-leaf making can be found along the raised wooden walkways that serve as streets.

Every village in Myanmar, no matter how small or remote has a monastery. Inle Lake has several. One of the most noteworthy is Nga Phe Kyaung. Like all Myanamar monasteries it is oblong in shape and the inhabited portion is raised on eight-foot pillars. In keeping with tradition, it is only one story high, as it would be an indignity for a holy monk to have anyone over his head. Young boys who enter the monastery in a state of shin, or probation, hope to empower their natural capacity for spiritual enlightenment and compassion. But Nga Phe Kyaung is perhaps better known as the Jumping Cats Monastery, so called because monks on break from their spiritual endeavours train cats to jump through hoops. It is typical to observe these learned monks discussing matters of Buddhist philosophy while coaxing cats through a ring.

If there is one aspect of Inle Lake that fully captures its spirit, it is the legendary fishermen. They are best known for their standing, one-legged rowing technique. The origin of the technique is uncertain, but it is believed that the practice began in the 12th century to enable the fishermen to navigate their flat-bottom wooden boats above the floating gardens.

A sunrise cruise reveals the lake at its most serene - silent, motionless with the encircling Shan mountains are visible only as a shadowy, serrated rim through the early morning mist. Gradually the sunrise begins to transform the reverie, and a magical sight slowly unfolds. The mountains assume a distinct form. Sunlight reflects like jewels off the shimmering water. The mist lifts to reveal dozens of fishermen on the horizon, each standing poised at the end of his boat, clad in the traditional Shan-style trousers, mandarin jackets and woven bamboo hats. The immensely tall, conical-shaped traps rising from the boats are evidence of the unique fishing tradition that the Intha have invented and perfected. Now just past dawn, it is time for the fishermen to leave the cold solitude of the lake and return to their villages with last night's catch. With one leg firmly planted on the stern and the other leg extended to power the oar, they make their way toward the lacy network of canals that will lead them home. They row with such mesmerizing grace that they appear to dance to a timeless tune.

A days trek beyond the lake brings the hardy traveller to Kakku, a complex of 1500 pagodas dating to King Alaungsithu's reign in the 12th century. The stupas of this architectural and spiritual masterpiece are magnificently preserved, built to last and to defend themselves against the ravages of time. They stand with imposing grandeur as a lavish affirmation of Myanmar's ever-present Buddhist spirituality. The perfect composition and sculpture make it one of the finest sites we have ever seen. Strolling among the stupas, we can almost imagine the supplicants who once worshipped here. Kneeling, heads bowed in devotion, the vanished figures seem to develop and fade, develop and fade, like ghosts of Kakku's ancient disciples amidst the hallowed shrines.

The physical attractions of Inle Lake captivate, but like any place that holds special regard, it is largely about intangibles. Incredible is this lake, a world in itself, where every custom holds its meaning and importance, where every life way is defined by ancient practices, religious beliefs & local traditions. Inle is a world of pagodas, picturesque villages, floating gardens and leg rowers. But still more, it is a society of gentle graciousness, a reflection of the Intha and Pao, their joys and faith, wisdom and values. Indeed, the beauty of the setting and the immensity of the cultures come together and stand as one in this exotic land, this refuge of dreamers, this journey through the very soul of Myanmar.